Oven Repair

We provide same-day oven repair service in Los Angeles county with a low price guarantee and Free service call with the repair. We repair all oven brands and models.


Because most homes receive a 240-volt supply from the utility company, and this input voltage comes from a center-tapped transformer, the grounding is essential for safety and to meet building/electrical codes. With a center-tapped transformer, there is 120 volts from the grounded center tap to one end of the transformer coil, and another 120 volts from the center tap to the other end. (Usually the total service availability is from 100 to 200 amps, depending on your location and on the age of the home.)
The 240 volts available for oven and air conditioning operation is provided by wiring from one end of the input utility transformer to the other. Improper grounding could result in a 120-volt "live" voltage potential between the metal parts of the range and the metal handle of a refrigerator or some other nearby 120-volt appliance. With bare wet feet, a user touching both appliances at the same time would be electrocuted.
Exhaust venting is necessary to remove both heat and odor. Smoke from the overcooking of greasy food is not only offensive, but can also stain walls and other interior surfaces. And during the hot summer, the exhaust vent helps keep kitchen temperatures at a tolerable level. A stove should not be located in the direct path of air flow from an air conditioning or central heating register vent, since a flow of heated or cooled air moving across cooking utensils can drastically affect the time required to cook most foods.
If moving a range, at least a partial disassembly is recommended. The glass-paneled oven doors should be removed and packed separately, just as carefully as you would crate up fine china. Plug-in surface cleaning elements should also be removed. Use heavy masking tape to tape in place all knobs and switches. It is far safer to crate up the range in the same carton in which it was originally purchased.


The first time you have to clean an oven you start wondering if maybe humanity shouldn't go back to eating raw foods. Disguise it as the manufacturers may, even the best oven cleaners smell terrible and are unpleasant to use.
As an answer to this problem, oven manufacturers have come out with two different ways to make an oven self-cleaning. The basic idea is simple —the food is burned away so that nothing is left. This can be accomplished by either using a catalyst that causes the food to decompose at normal cooking temperatures, or by generating enough heat so that the food decomposes on its own. Hence the two methods —catalytic and pyrolytic (pyro means "fire"). A catalytic self-cleaning oven has a special surface on the oven walls. This surface is rough, to increase the total surface area, and it is also dark, to increase the effective temperature. This kind of oven basically cleans itself every time it is used.

Because it is so uncomplicated and cost effective, the catalytic self-cleaning systems are probably the most common today. The two major drawbacks are that the surface is rather delicate and that cleaning is often incomplete. Quite often, and especially with spills, a manual precleaning is required for the system to work at all.
Pyrolytic self-cleaning units have a special setting on the control knob. When you flip this knob to "clean," the temperature in the unit will climb to somewhere between 800 and 900 F, or about twice the normal cooking temperature.
To withstand these temperatures, the unit must have some special features. There is extra insulation in the unit walls and also various mechanisms to keep the high temperature under control. For a pyrolytic system to work safely, the unit door must remain closed. If you open the door to an unit that is baking at 400 F, the wave of heat can hurt a bit, but probably won't do any real damage to you. Open that same unit door at 900 F and you're in for an instant and nasty burn. To protect the owner, the doors on an unit that uses the pyrolytic system have an auxiliary motor that cranks the door tightly shut and keeps it shut until the temperature has dropped to a safe level. This is just one of the features that further complicates the unit. Except for the various cleaning features and related parts (if any), troubleshooting of self-cleaning units is about the same as any other unit.

All of the above tips are for informational purposes only. For your safety, we strongly encourage any oven repairs to be performed only by a certified technician.